I stared at him blankly. “What did you say, bub?”
“Pupo.”
“Do you need a diaper change? Poopoo?”
“NO!” he was screaming in earnest now, furious at my lack of comprehension, “PUPO!”
My (Colombian) husband intervened at this point and popped a pacifier into the baby’s mouth.
Little man cooed happily in response.
“Chupo!” explained my husband, indicating the pacifier.
“Where on Earth did he learn that?” I asked, amazed. This kid usually refused to speak anything much beyond an eloquent grunt.
“Colombia!” came the inexorable reply.
My three-year-old daughter wandered in next. “Mommy, can I have helado?”
Toddler Spanglish – one of the many entertaining surprises we enjoy as an American family living in Medellín.
Our little family has lived in Medellín now for almost four years. It’s been an incredible opportunity to learn, adapt, and explore in a culture that is different from my native Arkansas in every way. The change has been an exciting one, but it is not without challenges.
The Positives
Affordability
Yes, this is perhaps the most obvious benefit of moving to the Third World, but it’s worth mentioning. While imported products may be astronomically expensive in some cases, many of life’s simple pleasures are good and cheap compared to their USA counterparts. Some of these include:
- Housing/Rent – When compared to the market of any inner city in the USA, housing is exceedingly affordable.
- Food – One of my favorite aspects of Medellin is the wide range of great food. Even the more expensive restaurants won’t charge more than $15/plate.
- Services – Whether it’s the girl that comes to my house to do my nails each Thursday, or the local handyman, you can count on paying about 75% less than US prices for any type of service.
- Healthcare – While individual health insurance is none too cheap, the government-sponsored EPS health insurance is wildly affordable, as is out-of-pocket care. A recent six-hour trip to the emergency room for our son (not covered by insurance) only cost us about $150 out-of-pocket.
The In-Home Empleada
To call her a maid would be a colossal understatement. Our full-time empleada does clean the house. She also helps care for the kids, cooks, does the laundry, walks the dog, sews on errant buttons, and occasionally runs small errands for us. If I were to ask her to make me up a nice hot chocolate on a chilly afternoon, she would do that too, but I am far too middle-class American to ask.
I once hired a cleaning lady to clean my apartment when I lived in Los Angeles. It cost me $90 for six hours of cleaning. The average Colombian empleada works nine hours per day, five days per week for a fraction of that price.
As a working mother, this help is indispensable. I’ll admit, I’ve grown accustomed to having her around. This may be the number one reason why I could never go back to the First World. I’ve fallen in love with my empleada.
Tip: According to my Colombian friends, empleadas are notorious for accidentally-on-purpose pocketing their employer’s valuables. Always hire an empleada that comes highly recommended by someone you know.
Automatically Bilingual Children
Spanglish aside, my six-year-old and three-year-old are 100% bilingual through absolutely no effort of my own.
Many Colombians notice the kids’ effortless transitions from Spanish to English and back again. I am often asked which bilingual school they attend. My answer is always,
“Why would I put them in a bilingual school?”
Both of our children learned to speak Spanish fluently within a few months of starting at a Spanish-speaking daycare. Our rule is that only English may be spoken in the home, with the end result being that the children learned both languages easily and without even the hint of an accent in either tongue.
Of course, I have been known to break my own rules at home, sometimes lapsing into Spanglish because certain words are just so much better in Spanish. Look up pecueca, friolenta, or mamitis, and you’ll see what I mean.
Exceptional Private School and Daycare Choices
My daughter’s first experience with daycare took place in Los Angeles. After searching for weeks for a decent and affordable option, my husband and I chose a small daycare with a tiny outdoor playground and zero grass. The curriculum seemed OK, but it was no children’s paradise. She cried every day for two weeks when we dropped her off each morning.
Flash forward one year: we had moved to Colombia and begun shopping for daycares once again. The options were limitless. Most facilities came fully equipped with huge grassy playgrounds, toddler-planted herb gardens, and on-site farm animals that the kids could both handle and care for. The very best of these charged less than half the price of the tiny daycare we had been using in the US.
When we took my then-two-year-old to see our final choice, the look on her face was identical to the one she wore upon her first visit to Disneyland. Not a tear was shed when we walked away.
The private school options for elementary and high school are equally as limitless, yet markedly less expensive than private schools in the United States or Europe. With options from the rigorously academic to the art-inspired, your only obstacle will be attaining a coveted spot on the waiting list.
The Community
Medellin International Moms
Gringo Paisa
MES: Medellin Entrepreneurs Society
Digital Nomads Medellin
Medellin Foodies
Colombians & Expats in Medellin
Medellin Basketball Association
Gringo Classified With A Price
Practice your English/Spanish in Medellin
Unless they are behind the wheel, Colombian people are kindness personified. Most of the locals you meet on the street are cheerful and happy to help in any way. I was lucky enough to marry into a large Colombian family, all of whom have welcomed us into their fold with open arms. It is a genial and nurturing community in which to raise children.
That being said, sometimes I tire of translating everything in my head before I say it and watching my poorly worded Spanish jokes fall flat on a Colombian crowd. For those days when I’m feeling lonely for English conversations and outings in sweatpants, I have my expat friends.
Medellín is home to a thriving community of expatriates from all over the world. Although most of them hail from North America and Europe, I have also met expats from Asia, Africa, Australia, and the Caribbean islands. Those of us who are moms have formed our own tight-knit group in order to recreate some home traditions that are not to be found in Colombia, such as carving pumpkins, Easter egg hunts, and Thanksgiving dinners.
Tip: Do you live abroad and find yourself craving the language and traditions of home? Try searching online for groups of expats in your area. Most major cities have various expat communities that stay in touch through social networks like Facebook.
So Much to Do and See
After four years of searching out family-friendly activities, we haven’t yet exhausted our choices of fun things to do. When we’re not visiting interesting parks, malls, and museums, we head out to the countryside in the lush hills that surround Medellín. Outside of the city limits lie countless pueblos, each with its own story and traditions. The semi-tropical forests and hills that surround the city are also full of trails, creeks, and waterfalls that children never tire of exploring.
You can find a few of these activities on this list.
The Negatives
Surely you didn’t think Medellín was all unicorns and rainbows? Yes, there is a downside. After a lifetime of convenience and security, Colombia can take some getting used to. Here are some of the cons for a busy family:
Everything is Slower
Get ready to slow down. Remember last Saturday when you went grocery shopping, stopped by the post office, got a haircut, bought a birthday gift, and still had time to take the kids to the movies? That day will never happen in Medellín. Between the convoluted and disorganized roadways, heavy traffic, and excruciatingly sluggish customer service, you’ll be lucky to knock out one or two errands in a day.
It’s not always a bad thing. Colombia has taught me how to take a deep breath, calm down, and take it slow.
Fewer Quality Playgrounds
Growing up, I was accustomed to living within walking distance of several large and well-kept public playgrounds. I was disappointed to find that this is not the case in Medellín. While most housing and apartment communities do come with a small, sad sort of playground, many of the city playgrounds are run-down, covered in graffiti, and occasionally frequented by unsavory characters.
I have searched out some beautiful city parks and playgrounds throughout the city, but you won’t find them on every corner. Find information on a few of Medellín’s best parks here, although it is by no means an exhaustive list.
Where’s My Whole-Grain, Gluten-Free, Organic Graham Crackers?
We millennial moms like our health food, but alas, this is one of several things that is very hard to find in Colombia. It would seem that Paisa mamas didn’t get the memo on organic and whole-grain snacks, and most are perfectly happy to stuff their toddlers full of papitas and gansitos (potato chips and snack cakes).
You can find your imported health foods, spices, and favorite brands, but you’ll have to search them out in specialty stores and pay top dollar. Other products that are either hard-to-find or expensive in Colombia include:
- Any USA-based brand of clothing, electronics, or food product
- Brand-name toys
- Good appliances and kitchen tools
- Baby gear
- Fine cheese and cold cuts
That Uncomfortable Zoo Animal Feeling
Many of my friends and family members expressed great concern when I moved my small children to the former ‘Capital of Cocaine’.
“Isn’t it dangerous?”
“Aren’t you worried about kidnappings?”
The short answer to these questions is no. I do not feel unsafe. In four years I have not so much as seen a robbery or any other criminal activity. Of course, you hear stories. Every Colombian you meet will tell you about their sister’s cousin’s fiance who got beat up and robbed one night in a shady part of town. Many of these stories could very well be true, but we have not experienced or witnessed any alarming situations ourselves.
That being said, it can feel a little unsettling to be a gringo family in Medellín. Although my Paisa husband fits right in, my children and I have very light skin and hair. Moreover, my daughter and I have blue eyes combined with light blonde hair, making us stand out more than a little in a Colombian crowd.
People stare. Children point. When we begin speaking to each other in English, it’s a regular side show exhibit. This, I can handle. I do not feel so comfortable when strangers reach out to ‘pet’ my daughter’s blonde curls without so much as a “How do you do?” Does this attention make my family a potential target? Perhaps. More likely, it’s just a reminder to keep a watchful eye on my purse and my children in public places.
Tip: Even if your family stands out in a crowd, you will likely feel very safe in tourist-friendly areas like El Poblado, Laureles, and Envigado. If ever you go to an area that makes you feel out-of-place or uncomfortable, (for me, these places include small villages and downtown areas of the Medellín city center) take the necessary precautions to feel more secure:
- Don’t dress in flashy “expensive-looking” clothing.
- Keep valuables like jewelry and smartphones hidden away in your purse or pocket.
- Keep your purse or bag zipped up and hold it close to your body.
- Don’t carry money or valuables in a back pocket or the outer pockets of your bag/backpack.
The Good Life
At this moment, I’m swinging in a hammock on my balcony, listening to a lively vallenato tune that’s drifting over from the house next door. My son is asking the empleada for a cup of milo in an adorable Spanglish dialect that’s all his own, and I’ve never felt more at home.
If you were to ask me, do the pros outweigh the cons? The answer is a resounding claro que sí!
Have you thought about living the expat life? Would you like to know more about family living in Colombia? Share your comments and questions below.
I have only spent a few months in South America but I do remember when I died my hair black and applied self tanning lotion all over my body to fit in more. It helped a lot. Your post reminds me of that!
“pecueca” 😉 😉 I can’t stop laughing!!!!
I enjoyed the reading. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for sharing positive things about my home town, I’m living your life here in the us. I’m marry ti an American and have lived in the us for 17 yrs. It has not been essy to learned the language and get use to the culture. I find americans are not as open as Colombian at least in the small town where I leave. People are nice but not very friendly plus the town is small and there is not much to do, not to mention winter.
I’m a city girl miss medellin a lot! I’m some how jealous of you leaving in my city.
Enjoy! Best wishes.
Ha! pecueca! Love the article! I so terribly miss all the pros you listed, I do miss my Medallo!
Colombia is not a third world country as defined by the World Bank. Educate yourself! Also- although you might be privileged and unaware, remember the cheap labour you hire lives in poverty.
Juliana, thanks for your input and taking the time to contribute to the discussion. I agree, Colombia is not defined as a 3rd world country but rather a developing nation. However, there are definitely areas of Medellin that would be considered 3rd world by the WB and many others. Either way, I see your point. We all have to be careful with the words we use and how they are interpreted.
You said: “Also – although you might be privileged and unaware, remember the cheap labour you hire lives in poverty.”
I find it necessary to give you another perspective on this, because, as they say, perspective is “everything”.
Jacklyn may be privileged as you say, but it is a bit unfair for you to assume that she is unaware. Also, you do not know if the “labour” she hires is living in poverty.
Sure, I agree, some empleadas do live in poverty. But who’s definition of poverty are we using in this case? Since you referenced the World Bank, let’s go on that.
“The World Bank defines poverty in absolute terms. The bank defines extreme poverty as living on less than US$1.90 per day> (PPP), and moderate poverty as less than $3.10 a day.”
I only mentioned their definition of poverty to play devil’s advocate. I can then say that nearly no empleada in Medellin lives in poverty and you should go educate yourself. But, I wouldn’t, because in our definition they are still relatively poor.
Many empleadas in India for example who by the WB’s definition are living in poverty would jump on the opportunity to be in many Colombian empleadas positions of “poverty”. Si o no?
My “empleada” who I refer to as Doña Nancy, was in a terrible financial situation when she first started working for me. All she really just wanted was an opportunity to work and make money – To get out of poverty per say. I worked very hard over the past few years to increase her hours from 1 day every 2 weeks to now 4 days per week. Life has changed for her. Last year she went on her first vacation outside of Antioquia (Santa Marta – by plane) with her daughter and son in law. She now has a secure pay check and EPS – something she never had. I am willing to bet that not too many Colombian families would pay her what I do and treat her I do. But that’s just what I think.
So why did I write this long comment? Because I sense that this article offended you. There is a lot of unspoken good that foreigners do for Medellin and Colombia. We may enjoy the benefits of cheaper labour than in the US and Canada, but we also contribute positively to the economy and lives of Colombian people.
Hi Jaclyn and Joel – thanks for the great info in this article and on this site!! My husband and I recently went to Medellin for the first time (following tons of research) and we are considering moving there (we live in the DC area now and have for most of our lives). My question – we have a two-year old and are considering a second child. While we’ve already begun researching the schools, I’m concerned about driving in Medellin as it seemed positively NUTS while we were there – not so much traffic but the way motorcyclists come out of nowhere all the time. The air pollution also seemed a bit intense – it’s the first thing I noticed when we came home, how fresh the air seemed. How have you managed with car seats, kid errands, etc in Medellin, and accessing green space regularly?
Thank you!!
Hello, Jaclyn here. Congrats on making such an exciting and daring decision! Here are a few answers to your questions and comments:
1. Yes, driving here feels very nuts at first, but you do get used to it over time. You just have to learn to be hyper aware of your surroundings when you drive.
2. The pollution is definitely a problem. Try not to move into a heavily populated part of the city; instead drive a few minutes outside of the main city to start searching. The hills of Envigado, for example, or the “country-like” communities throughout the hills to the south and southeast of the city. The air-quality is so much better just a few minutes out of the main city.
3. Carseats are not required by law in Colombia, that I know of. Most modern, educated parents use them, but I have spotted quite a few who don’t (and toddlers on motorcycles – eek!!) We have always had a shared family car in which we keep the carseats installed. You can also send a carseat on the bus with your toddler if you put them in daycare or preschool. You do not have to have a carseat to take a ride in Uber or taxi however (I prefer Uber with kids), although it’s always a good idea to take one when possible. I’ll admit though, when I’m going somewhere like a mall where I don’t want to drag a carseat around, I just sit in the backseat with the kid in my lap. (Terrible, I know, but I find myself becoming more Colombian over time.)
4. Running errands with or without kids in Medellin takes waaaaaay longer (see article above), so be ready for that. If I have to go to immigration or somewhere super time-consuming and boring, I leave the kids with someone else.
5. There are lots of green areas! Be choosy when looking for a house or apartment. A lot of complexes have their own ‘green zones’ and parks. There are some amazing, beautiful parks around the city as well, and lots of “fincas” in the country where you can go for daytrips or weekends. Here are some of the parks in the city: https://theculturetrip.com/south-america/colombia/articles/the-most-beautiful-parks-and-gardens-in-medellin/.
Also, there are several “Parque Uvas” that are awesome, Comfama parks, Inder recreation areas, and Parque Telemedellin with a neat playground. In short, there are endless outdoor activities to enjoy with kids if you have the time.
One last note- look for more than academics when shopping for schools. Some of the schools have beautiful green grounds and huge outdoor play areas, which was very important to us when we chose our school.
Good luck!!
Jaclyn
This is wonderful- thank you!! Much appreciated. We still need to explore more; I want to be able to accomplish a lot of errands on foot while also living among the better air quality, so that will be a challenge. Car seats are great but they are a hassle, so it’s nice to know I could hop in an Uber as you say without one from time to time.
Thanks again!
Jaclyn,
My wife and I will be moving to Medellin in August due to a job opportunity. The opportunity came up sort of last minute so we are now scrambling to figure out all the logistics. We have a 5 and 2 yr old. Based on having 2 kids, what would you recommend as the best neighborhood and also best school (assuming we can get into). Any advice for school admissions? I have already reached out to a few of the private schools to see if they have openings.
Jered
We are in the process of moving to Medellin but can’t seem to get a clear picture of how school will work out for my children. Their first language is English with minimal Spanish. It seems that Columbus is the only option, is this what you’ve found to be true? I haven’t heard positive things about Columbus school. My kids are 6, 11 and 13 years old. Thanks!
5yo son has declared he ‘hates winter’ and wants to live ‘where it’s always summer’. I have a job that I can do from Anywhere as long as there’s internet. And so I’m in the initial stages of planning a 1-2month ‘working’ Holiday. Any suggestions on how to find housing, child care and maybe aN emplieda (sic) before arriving? Will most likely be traveling with another solo parent & child in the same situation. Much appreciated 🙂
Hi Jaclyn,
I’m looking for a good daycare center who would be willing to accept my boy (4 year old) who does not speak any Spanish. I hope that by attending a daycare for 3 consecutive months (June-August), he would learn a little bit of Spanish. If it works out, we can return for the summer of next year. Thanks so much.
-Hugh
Hi Jaclyn and thanks.
I might try to mail you in the future about some small advices etc. I like what you write a lot.
I used to be in and out of Medellin before first time 2003, we have some friends there but not that many.
We are considering to go there in March/ april next year and maybe try to stay.
My “wife :), she’s not but let’s call her that, girlfriend is to wrong been together 7 years, Luiza will work from a computer 👩💻. I am a chef and very social, we both are..
Different now but still the same, 2children, Leticia 2,5 year and a new one, Noah so two children.
WhyNot, Luiza also been in Medellin. I really love Medellin and Colombia with all my heart.
I like what you write, please keep writing ✍️.
Thanks, Luiza and Jim